Jutting into the Aegean, the Bodrum Peninsula lies opposite the Greek island of Kos and between Turkey's brasher resort areas of Kusadasi and Marmaris. With its marinas, clubs and smartly-dressed clientele from Istanbul, the feel of the peninsula is French Riviera with an exotic twist. The cuisine, the bazaars and the hammams are inherently oriental, while the culture is an easygoing variety of Islamic: the intriguing mix of mosques and bikini-lifestyle is unabrasively achieved. Development is carefully monitored, and much of the peninsula retains an intrinsic charm. Inland there are pine-clad hills, and narrow roads; coastal towns and villages remain low rise, and are dotted with flowering bougainvillaea. Although the beaches are underwhelming, many of the hotels have wooden jetties, furnished with white umbrellas, sun loungers and scattered cushions, with ladders into the glorious blue water.